Accent Stripe
AIV Removal
Badgeless Rear Panel
Battery Optima Red Top
Big Brakes
Boost Gauge
Boost Gauge Hose
Boost Jets
Brake Idiot Light
Brake Master Cylinder
Butterfly Throttle Body
Carpet Hole Repair
CC Removal & Bypass
Center Console Removal
Classified ad
Clutch Line SS
Clutch MC and Bleed
Cone Air Filter Placement
Connectors Under Hood
Delete & Bypass
Dyno Runs
Earthing Kit
Engine Pull - New Turbos
EGR Delete
Fuel Line Clamps
Funky Fuses
Gear Shift Knob
Hatch Lock Stuck
Hella Horns
Hood Squeak
Idle Air Adjustment
Injector Dremel
Injector Testing
Interior Hatch Trim Repair
Jacking Car
Molding Replacement
Nose Panel
Plenum Pull
PRVR Removal and Bypass
Pressure Wash
Radiator Hard Pipe Leak
Radiator Howe / Z1
Rear Interior Trim
Robo's Rules of Z-Dom
Seat Removal
Shock Install
Spare Tire
Speedometer 180 mph
Stereo Installation
Taillights JDM
Temperature Gauge
Turbos JWT 530 BB
When TT.net Goes Down
450 SL
12 Hours of Sebring
24 Hours of Le Mans
AACA 2004 Hershey
Garage Remodel
Misc Album Pics
Misc Linked Pics
Numidia Raceway
Watkins Glen
Interesting Links
For Sale
Contact & Feedback

I was doing a little bit of stupid street racing against a Ninja when I suddenly lost all clutch pressure.  I managed to limp home in second gear. 

Checked my clutch MC reservoir under the hood -  low on fluid.  Did not find the source of the leak until I had a friend press the clutch pedal while I was looking at the slave cylinder under the car.   Then I got squirted in the eye with clutch fluid coming from a hole in my (supposedly bulletproof) stainless steel clutch line. 

Red arrow shows failure point of old clutch line. Green arrow points to a collar nut that does not exist on the new, replacement SST clutch line. Less moving parts on the new line, but flex and position adjustment on the line is now done at the upstream connection of the line.

The hanging line is the new SS clutch line.  Using my expert mechanical ability(sarcacsm) I managed to round off the nut at the red arrow.  The way to avoid that is to use the proper tool - a flare nut wrench.  I didn't have one then, I do now.  There is a clip that goes on the clutch line next to the arrow, that has already been removed.


The replacement banjo bolt that came with the new line was a little shorter than the stock bolt. 

I had heard that some peeps had issues getting the new banjo bolt to thread, so I didn't even try.  I reused the old one AND the brass washers.

This is what I used to bleed the clutch system.  Basically, this was the only brake fluid at the neighborhood auto parts store that didn't suck.  I had some Super Blue German racing brake fluid on my shelf, but I figured that was overkill for a clutch. 

Brake systems operate under much higher temps and pressures than clutches, and brakes benefit more from the "high end" fluids than clutches do.  This stuff was a nice compromise for a clutch bleed.  

Green arrow new SST clutch line.  Green dot banjo bolt, downstream connection of clutch line to slave cylinder.  Red arrow lower bleed point. Red X slave cylinder.

  Everything was wet with brake fluid from when the old line blew.

Blue dot is power steering reservoir. Blue X is hydraulic HICAS (4-wheel steering) system, converted to electric HICAS in all 1994 models.  

Blue arrow is upper clutch bleed point. 

Close-up of upper bleed point.  I was padding the screw head to keep it from bumping under the hood, but I eventually made a cut-out with my Dremel in the hood to keep it from rattling on this screw. 

I've seen many other Z's with this same hatch rattle.

Buy some 3/16 inch clear plastic tubing line at your local hardware store.  Hook up a couple of feet over the nipple above, and bleed the fluid outside the engine bay.  Don't get any brake fluid on your paint. 

I ultimately decided to get rid of this upper bleed point for the clutch.  Why it exists in the first place is a point of debate.  Consensus opinion was that the tubing and column of fluid acted as a damper for the clutch pedal. 

I ordered UM16-3 brake fitting from FedHill.  This small piece was described as a 10 X 1.00 mm SAE double flare female union fitting. Fed Hill was fast and helpful. 

I have been told but not confirmed that these are part numbers for the same piece from different manufacturers:

  • Edelman - 274000
  • Everco - 30068
  • Weatherhead - 7934A